Dining

Lost but Found - 2004

By Pamela Robin Brandt Thursday, Dec 9 2004

 

For ethnic food enthusiasts, there's no greater thrill than finding a very small, very hidden eatery -- and no greater compliment than to call it a "hole in the wall." Sushi Deli takes the compliment almost too far. Located on the bottom floor of a nondescript office building, this is one hole in the wall that badly needs a hole in the solid bank of shrubs in front of its window, since some scruffy, hand-painted lettering on that window is the only sign the place exists.

To confuse things a bit more, the lettering mostly says "Japanese Market." A retail outlet for Japanese groceries is what the place had been for several years when, two years ago, chef Michio Kushi opened his sushi counter in the front corner of the little shop. Most of the market is still devoted to retail goods, much of it rare stuff unavailable in Miami's larger Asian markets. For instance, there's sushi-grade tuna, salmon, hamachi, and white fish for those who like to roll their own at home -- not wise to try with just any old raw fish. There's also excellent-quality marbled rib eye ($9.99 per pound), conveniently pre-sliced superhumanly thin for Asian hot-pot dishes.

But shoppers shouldn't get so excited that they miss Kushi's offerings. Sushi lovers may recognize the chef from Miami's well-regarded Sushin, where he worked from 1980. And his original training -- well, don't ask, though I did. "Of course I learn in Japan. Where else? That is very stupid question," scolded the chef.

The perfectly prepared rice should have been enough of a tipoff; it may seem easy, but in Japan apprentices spend months, even years, learning to turn out rice balls that are consistently, delicately tangy -- and that don't fall apart. For those who underrate the importance of excellent sushi rice, a Battera roll ($7.50) will serve as a Sushi 101 course. For this traditional Osaka-style sushi, rice was loaded into a square box, layered with seasoned seaweed, then more rice, pressed, topped with ceviche-like marinade-"cooked" mackerel, then cut into squares. The result was as savory as it was beautiful.

Along with California rolls, et al., Kushi serves up some unusually creative stuff, most of which worked. A salmon-skin salad didn't; rather than the expected strips of succulent grilled skin, the lettuce came topped with an extremely salty and fishy pulverized dust that was definitely in the "acquired tastes" category. More typically terrific was a Marie Roll ($4.75). On the inside, the strong mint/basil flavor of shiso leaves balanced the raw tuna in hot sauce; on the outside, roasted garlic substituted for standard sesame seeds, adding an inventive Italian touch. There's also some uncommon fresh fish that changes according to market availability -- one day pristine striped bass, another day live baby abalone so fresh I was tempted to hit it, just to make sure it wouldn't escape the plate.

Vegetarians can also do well here thanks to a large assortment of makis featuring Japanese veggies, like a pickled daikon (radish) roll, an ume (plum paste) shiso cucumber roll, or a roll containing kanpyo, sweet-marinated strips of a type of gourd renowned for whetting the appetite. There are also a couple of hot dishes: salmon teriyaki and an assertive curried beef stew. Both came with rice, a salad, and edamame (soy beans in the shell), making them a substantial meal for $4.95.

Here's the trick: Don't look for Sushi Deli's unmarked address. Just turn in at the obvious sign to Treasure Island, then immediately into the parking lot on the right. Walk around front -- slowly, or you may miss the joint even on foot. But the hunt is worth it.

 

Link to original article:

http://www.miaminewtimes.com/2004-12-09/restaurants/lost-but-found/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Best of Award

Best Japanese Store - 2008

Japanese Market, Inc.

 

Looking for a certain trendy Japanese toy? Hungering for the latest installment of grotesquely cute anime gore? Then keep flipping — because Japanese Market is all about food, and the real stuff at that. Tiny it is, but filled with goodies. An easy dozen of canned curry pastes inhabit one shelf, right below a diverse crop of fish sauces, dried shrimp seasonings, and things made mostly of fermented soybean. For those seeking a quick fix, there are plenty of exciting Japanese munchies to try, from wasabi peas to ... well, we're not sure what they were, but they looked good. Frozen tuna, pickled ginger, shrimp tempura, and a hundred other tasties line the fridges; one is given entirely over to sake, of which the little shop boasts an impressive collection. There are also sake sets, as well as fancy chopsticks, sushi tools, and — for those missing the homeland — a few Japanese newspapers for sale. If you get hungry while you're there, take a seat at the shop's small sushi bar, where you'll discover tasty and very reasonably priced plates — eight bucks, and you've had one terrific lunch.

 

Link to original article:

http://www.miaminewtimes.com/bestof/2008/award/best-japanese-store-1005483/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Best of Award

Best Asian Market - 2009

Japanese Market, Inc.

 

There's an old proverb that goes, "First the man takes a drink; then the drink takes the man." Whatever. At Japanese Market — a tiny stop-and-shop with a fresh, by-the-roll sushi counter — sometimes the drink is the whole point. With more than 50 brands of hot and cold sake ranging from $4 to $74 to choose from, you can pluck chilled sake from the fridge and drink at the counter while you munch a spicy tuna roll. The place is set up like an old-fashioned drugstore, except with an emphasis on food. It specializes in ingredients from Japan, such as fish sauce and canned curry. Looking for something sweet? Try the Pocky. It's a biscuit stick coated with chocolate, green tea, mint, or mango for $2 to $3. Or opt for Hi-chew, a fruity Starburst-like candy that comes wrapped in wax paper for $2. The saying should go, "First the man takes a drink; then the man takes a bite." Mmmm.

 

Link to original article:

http://www.miaminewtimes.com/bestof/2009/award/best-asian-market-1656004/